Welcome to this repair guide for the iPod Nano first generation.
This model is designed similarly to the larger iPod Classic fifth generation but is smaller.
While the battery is soldered in on this device, it is considered the easiest model in the entire Nano lineup to repair.
The text version is provided below, but it's much easier to watch this video.
Unfortunately, the RAM and storage are not upgradeable.
There are a few places to get quality parts.
Just be sure to double check the ratings if you buy from Amazon.
This model does not suffer from the screen black spot issues that occur when the battery starts to expand in some other Nanos because its housing is made up of two separate pieces.
This is good.
Grab an iPod opening tool.
Alternatively, a dull box cutter blade is often preferred since its edge is sharper and easier to get in between the gap.
Start prying it open at the bottom on either side.
Work your way up to the top.
You will likely notice a couple of clips sticking up that hold the back cover on.
Push these down using a pair of tweezers or pliers.
You now have access to everything inside.
If you only wanted to replace the battery, you can skip to the battery replacement section.
To replace the screen or buttons, you must first remove the logic board.
Remove the four screws holding in the logic board.
It is a good idea to use a magnetic parts mat or tray so you can keep track of which holes the screws went in.
Some of these screws are different sizes.
One of the screws near the headphone jack is hidden under some copper tape.
Peel up the copper tape to access the screw.
Do not miss this hidden screw because if you try to pry up the logic board before it is removed, you could damage something.
The battery is held in with some adhesive.
You can pry the battery up using a metal pry tool.
Be careful not to puncture the battery.
Thankfully, the adhesive is not very strong.
Carefully unclip the flex cables for both the buttons and the screen.
Use some tweezers or a plastic tool to do this.
Bring the bottom of the logic board forward like this.
Release the clip holding in the buttons flex cable.
The cable should then easily pull out.
Perform the same process for the screen.
Unlatch the cable carefully.
This step might be a bit tricky because there is not much space to work with.
Once the screen cable is removed, you can remove the logic board.
This gives access to everything underneath.
If you needed to replace your screen, you would simply remove it from the housing.
Note that screens are adhered on pretty hard on this model.
If the screen is already broken, removing it is less of a concern.
If you need to replace the buttons, you would just remove the metal plate holding them on as they are held only with adhesive.
The battery is soldered in on this model.
Before desoldering the wires, take note of which pads the wires are running to.
Take a picture with your phone, if it helps.
The correct configuration is White on the left, Red in the middle, and Black on the right.
Apply a bit of flux paste to the solder joints.
This will make the solder flow more easily.
Hold the soldering iron on each joint, removing the wires one by one.
Adding a bit of extra solder to the tip may help.
Make sure you are not pulling too hard on the wire when removing it.
Pulling too hard can rip the pad off the logic board, preventing you from soldering the new wires.
Just let them fall of will slight pressure.
It is a good idea to add some new solder to all the joints before putting in the new battery.
The existing solder might be a bit oxidized and will not flow very well.
Solder in each wire one by one.
There is a little hole in the middle of each pad that you can slot the wire through.
If you find this tricky, you can also just wire them in sideways on top of each pad.
Find a place to tuck all the excess wires.
Tucking them under the BMS (Battery Management System) in the slot where the battery goes is recommended.
The BMS is usually not as thick as the rest of the battery, and there should be just enough room.
You can also put another piece of Kapton tape over the wires to hold them down like what was on there initially.
Putting the iPod back together involves following the removal steps in reverse order.
It is difficult getting those flex cables reinstalled because there is not much space to work with.
Using a flat ended pair of tweezers is recommended.
Screw the screws back in.
Make sure to put them in the right holes.
Ensure that the lock switch on the back cover is in the same position as the switch on the circuit board.
If they are misaligned, you can snap a little black knob off the logic board, causing you to lose your lock switch functionality.
Then carefully replace the back cover.
That's it!
Give it a little test to make sure you are happy with everything.
It's also recommended to give the exterior a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol to get it fully clean.
Thanks to Parts Plus Pods for the awesome video. Check out his site for iPod parts and repair services.
The batteries on the iPod Nano first generation models seem to hold up much better than those on the rest of the Nanos, despite being older.
However, there was a recall announced in November 2011 because in some very rare cases, the batteries were overheating and causing a potential fire risk.
Although the exchange program for an iPod Nano 6 or 7th gen has ended, it is a good idea to replace the battery if you still own one of these devices.
This overheating issue was not present on all models but only on ones with batteries from a specific manufacturer.
If you're looking for the best vintage iPod to buy read this guide.
Hint: this is not one of them.
But the 1st generation Nano is easier to repair than the 2nd generation.
Regardless of which iPod you have, now it's time to download some songs and maybe even buy some CDs.
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